Monday, July 2, 2012

First Full Day


Today I started a walking tour that I printed from the internet, called "In the Footsteps of Vienna's Famous Musicians."  The tour started at Stephansdom (St. Stephen's Cathedral), which is considered the icon of Vienna.  I had never seen a cathedral like this before and I was pretty blown away by the beauty, the size, and the historical aspects of it - both in general and in terms of musicians who were somehow linked to this Cathedral.  For example, Joseph Haydn moved to Vienna and began his career as a choirboy here, when he was 8.  One of my first feelings of awe this morning when I stepped inside was thinking of this little 8 year old Haydn choir boy, walking around and singing in there.


Deutschordenshaus theater



Another place I visited (very near Stephansdom) was Deutschordenshaus (the House and Church of the Teutonic Order), a place where Mozart lived between March 18th and May 2, 1781.  Johannes Brahms also lived there, on the top floor of the building, at one point.  I walked outside into the courtyard and viewed through windows with old, wrought-iron lattice, to this little 18th Century theatre, where concerts are still being held.

After a few smaller stops, I made my way to the Stadtpark, where there are several memorials for famous people and musicians.  Among them are Anton Bruckner, Franz Lehar, Robert Stolz, Franz Schubert, and Johann Strauss.  Johann Strauss is memorialized here in a golden statue, he is holding his violin ready to play and is surrounded by dancing and floating figures:
Johann Strauss in Stadtpark




Later in the evening, I enjoyed a Concert in Musikverein - the famous Golden Hall, where I listened to the Weiner Mozart Konzerte.  My seat was not that great, so I actually couldn't even see the stage, but I admired the sounds as I admired the art within the Hall. Here is a photo of the ceiling with paintings and detailed work throughout.  The entire Hall was like a piece of artwork:
Musikverein

Tomorrow is not quite decided for me yet, though I realize now how long it takes for me to get through the walks.  I am starting to get a much better idea on how the town is laid out, and so I hope that helps tomorrow. I may finish some sites on this walk, and plan a composer-specific walk, and if I do that, it will probably be Beethoven.  I can print that walk out, as well, and have that with me.  I think I will return to Stephansdom each day - there is something about it that just feels important to me personally, and holy.  I was impressed in the morning (and smaller numbers than in the afternoon, when I already visited it a second time), with how quiet people were being.  There were people praying, too.  I even felt a sense of home there.

A few reflections and impressions about the day:  I asked my first question in German today, trying to find a certain Music House.  A funny thing is that I actually get asked for directions and about things in general just as much, if not more, than I ask other people.  Sometimes that starts in German and it becomes apparent that I don't speak German, and at that point there is a mutual apology and "shoulder shrug" and we go our separate ways.  Sometimes it starts in German and ends in English - but I'm always getting asked by German-speaking people (who have German accents), which I wouldn't have expected..  I am starting to accept being immersed in a different culture and language than what I am used to, and even though there are elements about the way of life which are somewhat familiar (I'm still surrounded by humans, after all!), there is an element of truly being in a very different world than what I have been used to at home.  I can't put my finger on it entirely yet, because it's not just the language, it's not just the idea that I am in Austria, and it's also not just the historical factors ... it's something more or something else.

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